Rating and value of works, fashion drawings by René Gruau

If you own a work by or based on the artist René Gruau and would like to know its value, our state-approved experts and auctioneers can help you.

Our specialists will carry out a free appraisal of your work, and provide you with a precise estimate of its value on today's market. Then, if you wish to sell your work, we will guide you towards the best possible means of obtaining the best possible price.

Artist's rating and value

Renowned fashion illustrator of the 20th century, René Gruau established himself in his lifetime as a sure bet on the art market. On today's art market, the artist's value is high and continues to rise.

Highly prized by collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike, works by René Gruau are commonplace in auction rooms and can fetch hundreds of thousands of euros at auction. A case in point is his oil on canvas Rêverie, which fetched €146,268 in 2010. 

Order of value from the most basic to the most prestigious

The artist's works and style

René Gruau's illustrations are inspired by Art Nouveau and Toulouse-Lautrec, with mannequins and unique lines. He incorporates Oriental and Japanese techniques, creating a style all his own.

His fashion illustrations remain timeless. He creates a visual identity for fashion houses and cabarets, representing grace and elegance, even in extravagant outfits.

René Gruau, Dior designer

Renato Zavagli-Ricciardelli delle Caminate was born in Rimini, Italy, in 1909. Born into the Italian and Parisian aristocracy, his father was Italian and his mother French (he kept his maiden name and became known as René Gruau).

After his parents separated, Gruau moved to Milan with his mother and took her name. Young René developed an interest in fashion design from the age of 14, and began selling his creations to the Italian magazine Lidel to support himself. He also sold to English and German magazines.

In 1930, Gruau arrived in Paris, where he began his first collaboration with fashion designer Pierre Balmain. It was for Balmain that he produced the first official fashion illustration.

It was also in this year that he met Christian Dior, who was also working as an illustrator for Le Figaro. This meeting marked the beginning of a strong friendship and collaboration. Indeed, René Gruau's works became models for Dior creations from 1947 onwards.

During the Second World War, he was forced to leave Paris and settle in Cannes, where he signed a contract with International Textiles to design all their covers.                                                                                                                        

René Gruau works with numerous couturiers, as well as prestigious French fashion magazines such as Femina, L'Officiel and Madame Figaro. After spending a few years in the United States, he worked for renowned magazines such as Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, before concentrating exclusively on Flair.

He extended his artistic talents to cabaret and theater, where he designed posters, costumes and sets for the Lido cabaret, the Moulin Rouge and the Casino de Paris.

A total of 167 brands and fashion houses have used René Gruau's designs. He's particularly famous for keeping fashion design alive, and his designs are instantly recognizable thanks to his original signature.

His career remains closely linked to the House of Dior, with Gruau directing the first ads for Miss Dior perfume. He continued with the perfume Diorama and then with the iconic lipstick baiser. At the time, Christian Dior was not very keen on photographic campaigns and continued to place his trust in René Gruau. 

He is again in charge of advertising campaigns for Diormatic and Eau Sauvage, as well as for Diorella. John Galliano, who will take over as artistic director of the house, says that Gruau has "captured the style and spirit of Dior".

Galliano, aware of René Gruau's legacy and contribution to the House of Dior, even presented a collection in 2011 paying tribute to the distinctive craftsmanship of his designs and their mythical elegance.

Reasons to auction fashion designs

Selling fashion drawings at auction is of growing interest to collectors, art lovers and fashion enthusiasts, especially when the works in question are signed by masters such as Yves Saint Laurent, Elsa SchiaparelliRené Gruau or Paul Iribe.

These artists, emblematic of the 20th century, not only helped define the aesthetics of their time, but their creations continue to influence contemporary fashion and attract the attention of buyers on the art market.

Yves Saint Laurent's fashion drawings, for example, are highly sought-after in auction houses. This revolutionary designer, who redefined the female silhouette with iconic pieces such as the women's tuxedo, also left a considerable legacy through his sketches.

These works, often executed with great finesse and precision, capture the very essence of his creations before they are made. In 2009, a collection of his drawings sold at auction for impressive sums, testifying to the growing value of his work.

Buyers see these drawings not only as works of art, but also as fragments of fashion history, reflecting the creative genius of a legendary couturier.

Elsa Schiaparelli, another fashion icon, is also an artist whose designs are highly prized. Her creations, often marked by a surrealist audacity, are today considered masterpieces of fashion heritage.

His sketches, sometimes produced in collaboration with artists such as Salvador Dalí, bear witness to his avant-garde approach. When they appear at auction, they attract the attention of collectors looking to own a piece of this creative audacity.

In 2017, drawings by Schiaparelli sold for record prices, confirming the craze for his work.

René Gruau, famous for his fashion illustrations and advertising posters, is another artist whose work is highly sought-after.

His designs, which helped define the image of houses such as Dior, are not only testaments to Parisian elegance, but works of art in their own right. Collectors particularly appreciate his fluid lines and expressive use of color.

In 2010, one of his paintings, "Rêverie", sold for over €146,000, illustrating the strong demand for his work at auction.

Paul Iribe, fashion illustration pioneer and collaborator of Gabrielle Chanel, is another figure whose designs are sought after. His works, which blend modernity and tradition, not only captured the spirit of the 1920s, but continue to be celebrated for their influence on fashion and design.

At auction, his drawings regularly fetch high prices, reflecting the historical and aesthetic importance of his work.

Selling fashion designs at auction not only enhances the value of unique works of art, but also preserves and passes on a cultural heritage.

These works, which have left their mark on fashion history, continue to fascinate and seduce, whether it's Schiaparelli's bold sketches, Gruau's elegant illustrations, Iribe's visionary drawings or Saint Laurent's iconic creations.

By investing in these pieces, buyers are not just collecting art; they are acquiring a piece of fashion history, a testament to the creative genius that has shaped decades of style and elegance.

René Gruau's imprint on his era

René Gruau left an indelible mark on the world of fashion through his sketches, resisting the rise of photography in his day. His creations have become emblematic, in particular his advertising designs for Dior's Rouge Baiser.

His signature

Not all René Gruau's works are signed.

Although there are variations, here is a first example of its signature:

Appraising your property

If you own a work by René Gruau, don't hesitate to request a free appraisal by filling in our online form. A member of our team of experts and certified auctioneers will contact you to provide an estimate of the market value of your Gruau work.

If you are considering selling your work, our specialists will also guide you through the various alternatives available to obtain the best possible price, taking into account market trends and the specific features of each work.